Category: Gardening

Snake plant (Sansevieria) is also known as mother-in-law’s tongue. 

Most people don’t realize this rugged, ubiquitous houseplant (Sansevieria trifasciata) can sometimes flower. 

This is a rare occasion and will never happen more often than once annually, usually in the springtime, and usually only with plants living outdoors year-round.

Does Anything Special Need To Be Done With The Flower Or Plant?

You’re sure to have seen Mother-in-Laws Tongue or Snake Plants in public settings and on your grandma’s windowsill. 

These plants multiply quickly and can withstand a great deal of neglect. 

Neglect is what can often spur the plant to bloom.

When these plants are left to their resources, with little water and plenty of light, they spread quickly and can very rapidly become root-bound. 

This is what often stimulates the plant to bloom.

The reason for this is neglect gives the plant the message it is going to die from drought. 

This motivates it to produce flowers (seeds) to spread and hopefully take root and thrive.

Favorite Snake Plant Varieties

What Does The Flower Look Like, And How Big Does It Get?

When it does bloom, the flowers grow along with tall flower spikes or stalks. 

These spikes grow as tall as 3’ feet high and are covered in small, honeysuckle-like greenish, cream, or white flowers. 

Does It Have A Fragrance?

The blossoms are richly fragrant at night and contain very sweet, sticky nectar, which appears as dew drops on the blossom stems. 

Blossoms close during the daytime and open after dark. 

How Long Do Snake Plants Flowers Last?

There is no information available regarding how long the blooms will last. When they do die back, be sure to prune the flower stalks off at the base to help the plant conserve energy and present a tidier appearance. 

Can The Flower Be Used In Flower Arrangements?

Although these flowers are showy, they are typically not sturdy enough to be used in flower arrangements. 

Enjoy them where they are. 

Does The Plant Die After Flowering? 

Sansevieria will not die after flowering. The blossoms transition into orange berries.

Here is a Snake Plant which surprised its keeper with blooms indoors. 

Here is Mother in Law tongue plant blooming abundantly outdoors in tropical India. 

For years, I lived in an upstairs apartment with no garden. I wanted, no, I needed to be able to grow my own fresh veggies and herbs. While the space lacked a garden proper, it did have lots of exterior stairs that happened to be situated in full sun. So, as they say, ‘necessity is the mother of invention,’ and those stairs became my garden where I grew everything from tomatoes to potatoes. Yes, you heard me correctly, even potatoes. In fact, there are a number of surprising ways to grow potatoes and here are five of them.

1. Grow potatoes in containers. The traditional way to grow potatoes in the garden is by using the trench and hill method. This requires a good amount of garden space, but since I lacked that commodity, I thought what do potatoes really need? They need some depth…so why not container grow them in a fairly deep pot, but not one that is overwhelmingly huge – such as 5-gallon pickle bucket. Any large bucket will work, it just so happened that I worked in a restaurant at the time and it was free and readily available.

2. Grow potatoes in baskets or tires. Growing potatoes in a bucket is just one way to contain the plant. I have read of one person who grew potatoes in a laundry basket! They can be grown in vertically piled up old tires or even in a sheet of heavy black plastic that is rolled into a tube with holes cut along the sides. Old garbage cans also make great potato growing containers.

3. Grow potatoes in a bag. Potatoes can even be grown in sacks or grocery bags or grow bags. Just place the sprouted potatoes in amongst some nice light nutrient-rich soil. As the potatoes grow, continue to cover or hill them with more of the soil.

4. Grow potatoes in straw. Spuds can also be grown in straw, which eliminates digging them from the dirt. This method begets clean easily grown potatoes and the straw will just become mulch in the garden. The seed potatoes are planted on the soil’s surface and then covered with straw. As the plants grow, more straw is added to cover. A similar method can be employed with leaves too.

5. Grow potatoes vertically. The most amazing way to grow potatoes generates a double whammy – that is, you produce not only potatoes but tomatoes as well. Growing the TomTato is a great space saver. A TomTato is a grafting of the top of a cherry tomato to the bottom of a white potato plant. It is a single plant that produces two different crops and is a terrific space saver, as it can be grown vertically. Hands down the coolest idea I’ve seen for a while! You can also grow them vertically in a potato tower.

A well-grown Streptocarpus (cape primrose) is a joy. The many hybrids provide pleasing colors and dashing combinations in shades of crimson, pink, blue, violet and white. 

Contrasting lines and blotches of vibrant colors radiate from the throats of the flowers to add interest. 

These fuzzy-leaved plants are related to Saintpaulias (African violets), Columneas and gloxinias – all of them members of the gesneriad family. 

The natural habitat of streptocarpus is principally in Africa and Madagascar. There they grow in cool, humid, wooded mountain ravines where sheltered humus provides moisture for the roots.

The word streptocarpus is not as puzzling as it looks. It is a combination of two Greek words, streptos (twisted) and karpus (seed pod). The twisted seed capsule, on most varieties, is longer than a toothpick and nearly as thin.

The First Streptocarpus Arrives

The first streptocarpus species collected was brought from the African estate of George Rex, and it bloomed in England’s Kew Gardens in 1826. 

This gloxinia-like little plant received a generous welcome and was soon named Streptocarpus rexii. It develops compact rosettes of fluted, dark green leaves. 

From the axils of these come six to eight-inch stems, each holding one or two tubular flowers of rich blue. Today, this species figures in the background of many outstanding hybrids, such as the Weismoors, and is still grown by collectors.

At least two species of streptocarpus, S. wendlandii and S. grandis, develop only one large leaf. It matures in a year or more when numerous flowering stems come from the base of the strong mid-vein of the leaf. 

These individual leaves may grow to two or three feet in length when the plant is given abundant moisture. 

I experienced this when growing S. wendlandii in a specially prepared border north of my house. 

Even the width of the leaf was 12” inches. Imagine the problem encountered at potting-up time before frost! 

I solved the dilemma by using a large pot and placing it on a table on the porch where the leaf could rest in its natural position. 

However, now I am growing S. wendlandii and S. grandis in four-inch pots and the leaf measures about 18” by eight inches, and they seem content in this size pot. 

S. grandis has a leaf of lighter green than that of S. wendlandii, and it is thinner. 

These streptocarpus are annuals – they bloom once, then die.

The Leafy Stem Cape Primrose Streptocarpus

Another streptocarpus group is composed of species with erect, leafy stems. 

The most familiar is Steptocarpus saxorum, seeds of which were brought to the United States from Tanganyika (present-day Tanzania) by L. J. Brass of Florida in 1950. 

It is easily grown and propagated. 

I’ve grow it in an east window and even in a south window during winter while the sun is far south. The sun brings out the dainty blue flowers, each held by its own wiry, three-inch, red-black stem. 

When these appear in profusion, they are suggestive of arms reaching out to wave blue flags all around the plant. 

Streptocarpus saxorum is a branching plant with a multitude of stems. The largest individual leaves are slightly less than an inch long, and about one-half inch wide. 

They are succulent and hairy. Stem cuttings root well in vermiculite, in a mixture of peat moss and sand, or in a combination of peat and perlite. 

Streptocarpus kirkii of this group has branched stems and heart-shaped leaves about 1 ½” inches in diameter. Each flower stem may hold as many as 25 or more light blue blossoms.

Propagation

Cape primrose may be propagated by seeds or cuttings just as easily as African violets. 

Also, the same soil African Violet soil mixture may be used. 

Good drainage is necessary, but the soil should never dry out or the leaf edges will turn brown. Streptocarpus resent air that is excessively hot and dry. 

In the window garden, it helps to set them on a surface of moist sand, peat moss or perlite.

S. rexii and the other hybrids may be grown at cooler temperatures than are usually provided for African violets and gloxinias – down to 50° degrees Fahrenheit at night. 

Give them plenty of sun in winter. 

The one-leaf species, S. wendlandii and S. grandis, have done well for me in a wide range of conditions, seeming to thrive best with a moist atmosphere, and a temperature range of 62° to 75° degrees Fahrenheit in the winter. 

S. saxorum needs warmth, some sunlight and high humidity.

I have found streptocarpus valuable in my outdoor garden during warm weather. 

The roots seem to appreciate the opportunity to meander deeply into moist leaf mold. Early morning and late afternoon sun promote compact growth and profuse flowering. 

Watering is done with a flared hose nozzle, and on extremely hot days the plants are cooled by the hose several times a day. 

During the summer, streptocarpus outdoors relish the dew, rain and cool night air. 

By Florence Knock

Sometimes we don’t give certain foods a culinary chance and the reason for our aversion can be unjustified. Breadfruit (Artocarpus altilis) is a classic example for me. How do you prepare your taste buds for something with a weird name like that? Is it fruit that tastes like bread? Smells like bread? Looks like bread? All of the above? And, at the time, I wasn’t sure an affirmative response to any of those questions was a good thing, so I lost my gumption to try it. But now, after researching and writing about the history of breadfruit, I am quite fascinated by it, so go ahead and serve me a slice! For starters, did you know that breadfruit is associated with a famous mutiny? It’s true! Read on to learn more!

What is Breadfruit?

Breadfruit trees are grown throughout the tropical regions of the world. A member of the mulberry family, breadfruit can grow upwards of 85 feet (26 m.) tall with each tree producing up to 200 large round, oval or oblong fruits per year. Each individual fruit has a skin texture that is smooth, bumpy or spiked and can weigh a hefty 12 pounds (5 kg.).

Breadfruit is ripe when it is firm with skin having a greenish-yellow cast and flesh that is soft and creamy white or yellow. Breadfruit is typically roasted, baked, fried or boiled before being consumed. While breadfruit is actually a fruit, it is regarded more as a vegetable from a culinary standpoint. The taste of breadfruit is somewhat hard to pin down depending on individual palates, how it’s prepared and even the ripeness of the fruit, but the texture and taste is most commonly likened to that of a potato, artichoke hearts or a grainy bread.

Breadfruit seems to have endless culinary possibilities given that it can be used as a substitute for potatoes in many recipes. And, some culinary creativity may be in order because some people feel that the taste of breadfruit is quite bland. The riper your breadfruit is, the sweeter it will be, as more of the starches will have converted to sugar, but it will never be as sweet as a mango or papaya, for instance. While the name of breadfruit probably alludes more to its taste than anything else, the case can be made that it resembles or smells like freshly baked bread in its roasted or sliced and fried forms.

History of Breadfruit

So where does breadfruit come from? Breadfruit has been a staple crop in Oceania for more than 3,000 years. It originated in New Guinea and the Indo-Malay region. Islanders carried breadfruit on their early voyages throughout the Pacific Islands as they colonized the region, contributing to its spread.

The spread of breadfruit beyond the Oceanic region can be credited to Britain. In the late 1700’s, Britain was seeking a cheap high energy food source for the slaves in the British West Indies, particularly for those in Jamaica working the island’s sugar plantations. It was during this time, circa 1768, that Captain James Cook and botanist Sir Joseph Banks were in Tahiti as part of a three-year exploratory expedition. They discovered breadfruit there and recognized its potential for resolving Britain’s dilemma, as breadfruit was a low-maintenance, fast-growing tree which yielded prolific carb-heavy fruits.

An expedition, led by Lieutenant William Bligh on the HMS Bounty, was dispatched to Tahiti in 1787 to transport breadfruit trees to the West Indies. The mission failed due to the infamous “mutiny on the Bounty” en route to West Indies from Tahiti. The lieutenant and the loyal members of his crew were cast into a small boat and all 1,015 plant specimens were thrown overboard. Lieutenant Bligh, against all odds, used his keen navigational skills to return to England where he was later promoted to Captain and commandeered a successful second expedition on board the Providence to Tahiti in 1791, which successfully delivered breadfruit plants to the Caribbean at Kingstown, St. Vincent and several paces in Jamaica.

While the breadfruit trees thrived in their new West Indies locales, the West Indians did not really embrace breadfruit and only ate them when they had no other options, which defeated the intent Britain originally had for the plants. Forty years later, however, breadfruit gained widespread acceptance in the islands. Today breadfruit is grown in close to 90 countries including Africa, Australia, South America, South and Southeast Asia. In the United States, breadfruit is grown in South Florida and Hawaii.

Zamioculcas zamiifolia or the ZZ plant is a remarkably easy-care plant similar to cacti, succulents, or orchids when it comes to care.

These plants like a light, airy, breathable growing medium and they cannot tolerate wet feet.

Unlike orchids, succulents, and cacti, the ZZ plants thrives in low light settings.

You’ll have very few problems with this plant, but yellowing leaves are a common symptom which will tell you when problems are present.

There are several reasons why the leaves of your ZZ plant may begin to turn yellow.

In this article, we review the causes of this common problem and share advice to help you avoid or treat it. Read on to learn more.

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Overwatering

When you overwater ZZ plants, as with most plants, root rot may ensue.

When this happens, the roots can no longer uptake nourishment properly, and this causes yellow leaves.

To determine whether overwatering is the cause of your problem, simply check your soil.

If you poke your finger into the top inch of soil, and it is wet, overwatering is likely to be your problem.

To water your ZZ’s correctly, you should allow the top 1” inch of growth medium to dry completely.

Pour water through the soil just as you would with a cactus or succulent.

Don’t allow the plant to stand in water for any significant period.

Be sure to tip any excess water out of the plant’s drainage saucer.

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Under-Watering

Even though drought-resistant ZZ plants don’t need a lot of water, they do need some!

If you have neglected your plant for an extremely long time and the soil has become completely dry, your plant will suffer and will let you know with yellow leaves.

Soil feeling dry to the touch and a pot feeling abnormally light when you lift it indicates a need for water.

Give your plants a good soaking, but don’t fertilize excessively dry soil.

If you want to provide fertilizer, wait until the next appropriate watering time and use a diluted (half strength) solution.

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What Is The Right Amount Of Water for A ZZ Plant?

It’s not possible to recommend a precise schedule because every situation and the setting is different.

The amount you will need to water your plant depends a great deal on some factors including:

• Air Circulation
• Temperature
• Container
• Humidity
• Light
• Soil

The more light, heat, and air circulation your plant receives, the more water it will need.

Dimly lit, humid; still settings will require less water.

If the soil you are using is heavier than is ideal, your plant will need less moisture.

If you have an ideal, light, airy substrate for your plant, you’ll need to water a little more often.

Generally speaking, weekly watering during the plants growing season (spring, summer, and autumn) and twice-monthly watering during the winter should be all right.

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Improper Nutrition Can Cause Yellowing Leaves

Zamioculcas is hardy and undemanding, but they do need a bit of fertilizer from time-to-time.

Choose a water-soluble, balanced houseplant fertilizer and mix it up at half strength.

Apply it no more than once a month.

Fertilizing a couple of times a year (once early in the spring and once around mid-summer) is an ideal schedule.

Yellowing leaves are sometimes caused by too much nutrition or too little.

If you have been fertilizing your plant excessively, give it a rest.

Give your plant a thorough watering allowing fresh, clean water to flow through the soil for several minutes to rinse out excessive fertilizer.

If it’s been a while since you’ve repotted your ZZ, starting over again with the fresh, new potting soil will also take care of problems caused by either under fertilizing or over-fertilizing.

More on Zamioculcas zamiifolia –> Is The ZZ Plant Poisonous?

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Zamioculcas Zamiifolia Is A Shady Place Plant

Another cause of yellowing leaves is excessive light.

Zamioculcas like to be in partial shade or areas with moderate indirect sunlight.

If your plant is receiving more than four hours daily of direct sunlight, it’s too much.

This will cause sunburn and yellowing leaves.

If you believe excessive light is causing your plant’s problem, naturally you should relocate it to a setting providing gentler lighting.

Alternately, if relocating the plant is not possible, you may wish to put a sheer or lace curtain over the offending window to provide some shade.

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Temperature Extremes Can Cause Yellowing Leaves On Zamioculcas

ZZ plants are winter hardy in USDA hardiness zones 9 through 10.

These plants can tolerate temperatures ranging from 50° – 90° degrees Fahrenheit (10° – 32° C), but wildly fluctuating temperatures will cause the plant to suffer and the leaves to yellow.

Ideally, you should keep your plant at comfortable room temperature during the day and don’t allow the temperature to drop below 50° degrees Fahrenheit (10° C) at night.

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12 Steps To Treat A ZZ Plant With Yellow Leaves

• Begin by removing the damaged plant from its pot. This is especially true if the problem has been caused by excessive water, but a repotting into fresh soil can benefit any ailing ZZ plant.
• Carefully shake and brush the old soil away from the plant’s root ball and throw the old soil away. If your problem is caused by root rot, you don’t want to reuse soil infected with fungus.
• Examine the plant’s roots under good lighting. If you find any soft, mushy areas clip them away with sharp, sterilized pruning shears. Dispose of this fungus-infected tissue properly. Don’t throw it in your compost, toss it in the trash.
• Sterilize your shears and examine the leaves and stems of the plant. Clip off any yellowed foliage. If you find yellowed stems, clip them off at the point where the stem emerges from the tuber.
• If you have found root rot is your problem, drench the tuber and the roots thoroughly with a solution of thiophanate – methyl, or other fungicidal treatment. No matter what sort of product you choose, be sure to follow packaging directions very carefully.
• Have a brand-new container ready. The best containers for ZZ plants provide good air circulation to the roots and tubers. The best materials are terra-cotta or hypertufa pots. Even with these porous materials, the container you choose must also have ample drainage holes.
• Use fresh, light, airy houseplant potting mix. A good mixture is half perlite and half succulent potting mix. Put a layer of pebbles or packaging peanuts on the bottom of the pot for extra drainage. Add a layer of your potting medium. Place the plant in the container and backfill around the roots and tuber with fresh growing medium.
• Place the recovering plant in a setting where it will remain consistently warm with low, indirect lighting for about a week. During this time, do not water. Allow the plant to stay dry so the fungicide you have applied will have a chance to work.
• When your plant has had a week to recover from its ordeal, place it in the best setting possible. Ideally, your ZeeZee plant will be happiest with consistent temperatures between 80° – 87° degrees Fahrenheit (27° – 30° C), bright indirect lighting, and good air circulation.
• Begin a responsible and effective watering schedule by giving your recovering plant a complete watering. Remember not to water again until the top 1″ inch of soil is dry.
• Your plant will not need fertilizer at this time because it is in fresh soil. Depending upon the time of year, you may not need to fertilize until early in the upcoming springtime. Remember not to fertilize any more frequently than once a month, and no less than two times yearly.
• If you are able to give your ZZ plant a vacation outdoors in the spring and summer, do so. Your plants will thrive in a protected outdoor setting providing bright, indirect natural lighting and fresh air.

Could your beautiful garden be hiding a very deadly
hazardous material? Asbestos is a well-known hazardous material that was widely
used in building construction decades ago. If your home was built before the
late 1980s, when asbestos was banned, or is a newer home built on an old home
site, asbestos could have found its way into your soil. In addition, a good
percentage of old sheds and outbuildings may have been constructed with
asbestos; even if the shed or outbuilding has been removed, asbestos could
remain.

The most common use for asbestos was in the roof,
walls and around pipes as insulation, both in homes and outbuildings. However,
asbestos was also sometimes mixed in with cement, making it very hard to
detect. Likewise, some carpet underlayment that was manufactured and installed
before the 1970s was manufactured from bags that had previously transported raw
asbestos. If old carpeting or carpet underlay has been disposed of on your
property, that is another potential source of asbestos.

What You Should Do if You Have Found
Asbestos in Your Garden

If you suspect there may be asbestos in your garden, don’t panic. The first thing you should do if you think there is asbestos in your garden is to call a professional for an asbestos test. A professional can examine any potential asbestos, and if necessary, send it to a lab to confirm whether or not it really is asbestos. The results will provide you with the knowledge you need to take the next step.

Often, if the asbestos is in good shape and is not
likely to be disturbed, it can be left alone. However, asbestos is dangerous to
both human and animal health if it’s disturbed and the fibers are released into
the atmosphere, where they can be inhaled into the lungs. It can be nearly
impossible for the average person to differentiate between asbestos and
similar-looking materials.

While as a homeowner, you can legally remove small amounts of asbestos from your property, you must follow all the safety and health measures that apply to the disposal of asbestos. If you are uncomfortable doing this yourself and are unsure of the safety procedures, it’s recommended that you call for licensed asbestos removal professionals; for example, Asbestos Removal Adelaide. Also, if you plan to tear down an old shed, it is highly advisable to have professionals check the site for asbestos before anything is removed or disturbed.

Any sort of renovation or demolition project on your
property should have an asbestos inspection before proceeding. This is
absolutely true of any type of building built during or before the 1980s, when
the use of asbestos was finally banned. If necessary, contact a professional
asbestos removal Adelaide to perform both an asbestos test, and to remove any
asbestos found anywhere on your property.

Your garden should be the most beautiful and relaxing
place on your property. Don’t let lingering doubts about asbestos spoil your
enjoyment of your home and garden.

The beautiful Bougainvillea plant is a genus of tropical plants, thorny, shrub-like perennial vines of the Nyctaginaceae family.

Beautiful in a hanging basket and some growers have formed them as a bonsai.

The plants are native to South America and are available in more than 300 varieties and a wide range of colors, such as:

• White
• Yellow
• Lavender
• Orange
• Purple
• Red
• Shades of pink

But, there’s an interesting and a lesser-known fact about bougainvillea plants – what are often considered flowers are modified leaves called bracts.

Since the bracts are immensely showy and encircle the tiny, white-colored real flowers, almost hiding them, they are often mistaken for flowers.

The plants have two distinctive growth cycles; a period of vegetative green growth and a growing season or blooming period.

Bougainvillea blooms are not as heavy in South Florida during the summer months (June – August) because of the long days and excessive rainfall.

Although, somewhere like Texas where it’s mostly hot and dry they grow beautifully.

Bougainvilleas are heavy feeders and need to be fertilized regularly throughout the blooming season to ensure proper production of flowers.

They grow best in warm weather and need to be protected from frost and very cold weather.

The plants are known by different names in different parts of the world.

Some alternative names for bougainvillea are:

• Buganvilla (Spain)
• Pokok bunga kertas (Indonesia and Malaysia)
• Bugambilia (Mexico, Cuba, Guatemala, and the Philippines)
• Jahanamiya (Arab World)
• Primavera (Brazil)

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Best Bougainvillea Fertilizer

A growing bougainvillea plant needs phosphate and nitrogen plant food to flower, so make sure to use a fertilizer containing these elements to ensure proper blooming.

A small amount of iron (chelated) can help your bougainvillea plants maintain their beautiful and vibrant colors.

Do not use a generalized fertilizer for bougainvillea species.

To ensure abundant flowering plants and good overall health of plants, use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (N-P-K) in equal ratios, such as 5-5-5 or 10-10-10, and don’t forget this when repotting.

If repotting make sure you dig up as much as the root ball as possible before moving.

It is critical to use a slow-release fertilizer on this houseplant because the excessive supply of nitrogen inhibits blooming and promotes new growth to be vegetative.

Following specialty plant food fertilizers are known to work best for bougainvillea plants:

• NutriStar
• BOUGAIN (6-8-10)
• Dr. Earth Exotic Blend

Many plant experts and home gardeners also recommend using a hibiscus fertilizer, if a fertilizer specially formulated for bougainvilleas is not available.

Adding about a tablespoon of Epsom salt at the time of fertilization may also be beneficial.

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When or How to Fertilize Bougainvillea

Feed your bougainvillea with a fertilizer containing nitrogen and phosphate, once a month, during the bloomer period i.e., from early spring to mid-summer.

For bougainvillea vines growing in the ground, use half a cup of granular fertilizer per 4’ feet of the plant height and lightly scratch it into the soil surface using a trowel or a hand cultivator.

Plant the water thoroughly after fertilizing, if potted make sure there are good drainage holes.

Use a half-strength, liquid plant fertilizer, and water-soluble fertilizer for plants growing in containers.

Dissolve one tablespoon of fertilizer in a gallon of water and water the soil mix.

Make sure to avoid too much water as Bougainvillea bloom and grow best when the soil is kept a little dry and too much watering will lead to root rot.

Bougainvillea care tip: Do not fertilize the species of this perennial flowering vine in fall and winter, if you live in a cool area, and reduce watering to a minimum too.

If you live in the northern states, it’s too cold to grow bougainvillea in the Fall unless they’re housed in warm greenhouses

Only resume feeding when the plant is returned to the outdoor, under full sun or direct sunlight, in the following spring.

Prune any suckers grown at the base of the plant or by pinching them off to encourage more growth at the top.

This is because the plants are not winter-hardy and become semi-dormant in cold weather.

Once the plant becomes established it’s drought-tolerant and they tend to bloom year-round.

USDA hardiness zone 10 – 11.

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Fertilizing Young Bougainvillea

Apply a high-nitrogen fertilizer on young plants until they have grown well and become established.

Once they are well-established and have significant vegetative growth, switch to a high-potassium fertilizer to encourage blooming.

Important: Never feed your bougainvillea plants when their root system is dry. If the soil is too dry and it’s time for fertilization, water the plant and then wait for one day before feeding.

A pond in the backyard can make for hours of fun for kids and adults alike. Like all water elements, ponds are relaxing and lovely,reflecting sky and nearby plants. They can also attract frogs and beneficial insects, like dragonflies, that lay their eggs in water. Maintaining a healthy pond isn’t as complex as it may sound.Here are seven simple tips to get you started.

1. Create a happy mess. If you want crystal clear water and manicured plantings, a pond is probably not the way to go. Backyard wildlife ponds should be messy, with an imprecise combination of mud, twigs and leaves to house wildlife. Don’t over-manage if you want to encourage a healthy habitat.

2. Build in shade. Sun is fine and helps aquatic plants with photosynthesis. But don’t put your pond in full sun. It doesn’t matter how many hidey-holes you include for reptiles and animals, plants bear the full brunt of the rays. A mix of shade and sun works best to keep plants growing without excessive organic buildup.

3. Plant politics. Mix your plants and aim for diversity. You’ll want some that float, some that grow up and out of the water,and some that stay submerged. Don’t forget to include plants around the pond edges as well. This provides many habitats for different critters. Look out for and avoid non-native aquatics that can become invasive and block out the others.

4. Deeper isn’t always better. Use the same principal of diversity for the depth of your pond. Mix shallow areas and deep water to give aquatic plants and animals different types of habitat. For small ponds, 12 inches (30 cm.) is deep enough to allow wild things to thrive.

5. No tap water. Don’t fill your pond with tapwater unless you are looking to attract algae, which nobody is. Water from the sink or hose usually contains more nitrates than are good for a pond and turn it dirty green from algae levels. Rain water works best, so wait for it or store it up.

6. Remember runoff. If you use toxins on soil near your pond, they may end up in the pond as water drains. This includes pesticides, fertilizers and any other chemicals. Likewise, sprays drift. Any and all of these can negatively impact your plants and animals.

7. To fish or not to fish. Fish are fun in a pond, and kids love to watch them. But fish don’t always work well with other wildlife like frogs, salamanders and newts. Inviting fish into the space will limit other animals.

Alcea Rosea [al-KEE-uh, ROH-see-uh] the hollyhock plant is a genus of about 60 species of flowering plants in the Mallow (Malvaceae) family originating from southwestern China and exported to Europe in the 15th century.

When it became popular in Europe, William Turner, a renowned herbalist of the time, named the plant.

The Hollyhock plant fits the definition of old-fashioned garden plants.

They’re closely related to okra, cotton, and hibiscus.

The plant comes in a wide variety of colors: red, white, blue, pink, yellow, purple, and even black.

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Common Hollyhock Plant Care

Size and Growth

Common Hollyhock grows tall with an average height of 6′ – 8′ feet tall.

It spreads around 1′ – 2′ feet, allow ample room for it to grow properly in your garden.

The hairy leaves of the Hollyhock are borne in clumps reaching 6″ – 8” inches across.

Blooms start at the base of the stem and continue to move upward 1′ – 2′ feet.

This ensures the entire stem is covered in bloom when the growing season starts.

Hollyhock flowers grow 2″ – 4″ inches in width.

Flowering and Fragrance

The Alcea rosea has a two-year life cycle, known as biennial plants.

Many of the available hollyhock varieties are biennials.

Depending on the soil and care, it will be annual or a short-lived perennial.

The first year is spent growing foliage and storing energy.

The second year or last year flowers bloom in late summer, seeds form, and flower stalks shoot up.

This species is a hermaphrodite (having both female and male organs).

It can have spires of single flowers and double flowers.

They have numerous stamens, and the stalks grow together.

The large, showy blooms attract hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees.

They have no particular scent.

Light and Temperature

Hollyhock plants need full sun and cannot grow in the shade.

A warm sunny location sheltered from the wind is ideal.

The plant is tolerant of the cold, but their flowers can become damaged by frost.

Seeds of the Hollyhock plant need to be sown from March-June in well-drained soil.

They should plant in large plug cells, and a pH level of 5.8-6.0 should be maintained.

For optimum germination, you need 55° – 60° degrees Fahrenheit (13° C – 16° C).

Germination can take place in up to 8 – 10 days.

After this occurs, you need a day temperature of about 65° – 70° degrees Fahrenheit (18° C – 21° C) while the night temperature should be 55° – 60° degrees Fahrenheit (13° C – 16° C).

Watering and Feeding

Alceas Roseas are heavy feeders and need high maintenance.

You will need to apply potassium nitrate and calcium at a rate of 75-100 ppm constant feed.

Don’t allow the soil to dry out since Hollyhocks need the ground to be evenly moist.

Soil and Transplanting

Hollyhocks are hardy to USDA Hardiness Zone 6.

They’re temperamental plants so transplanting is often discouraged.

They have large tap roots making them a challenge to dig up.

However, you may be able to do it successfully if you are careful enough.

Hollyhock seeds shouldn’t be moved until they have at least 4 leaves and the day temperature is more than 50° degrees Fahrenheit (10° C).

The soil where you plant Hollyhocks should be mixed with clay, sand, and plenty of compost.

Remove the seedling from its pot gently and crumble the soil from the root ball.

If it was growing in the ground, use a trowel to dig it out gently.

Plant Hollyhock seeds in a hole prepared with composted soil and slide the roots of the seedling into it.

Press the soil down with your hands but don’t cover the crown where the stem meets the roots.

If you do, the plant will rot.

Hollyhocks will readily self-seed new plants if not maintained.

While planting Hollyhock locate them where this won’t be a nuisance.

Growing Hollyhocks Grooming and Maintenance

The foliage of the plant needs to be kept trimmed and free from insects.

Remove any yellow leaves by hand.

High fertilizer levels also need to be maintained to prevent yellowing of lower leaves.

Do not use ammonium nitrate, it will produce cabbage-like leaves.

If proper maintenance isn’t conducted, the foliage becomes unkempt and tattered.

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How to Propagate Alcea Rosea

Hollyhocks propagate by seed and by division.

Sow seeds outdoors about a week before the last frost.

For same year growth, sow throughout the growing season until 2 months before the first expected fall frost.

In non-blooming seasons, loosen the ground around full-grown plants and pull out the stalks.

Retain their long roots and place them in water.

Grow new plants in early spring, they need 4 months to mature, this is key to their summer colors.

If you missed this year’s spring it may be worth waiting until next spring.

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Pests and Diseases of Hollyhocks

Anthracnose can damage the foliage, leaf spot, and rust.

Hollyhock rust is treated with proper ventilation and fungicide.

Prevent rust by watering from below, providing good air circulation and giving a thorough late fall cleanup.

Japanese beetles and spider mites feast on the leaves.

If unprotected from the wind, it needs staking.

Snails and slugs feed on seedlings.

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Suggested Alcea Rosea Uses

Common Hollyhocks provide great architectural height which looks great against old cottage gardens.

They grow well against fences and walls.

In herbal medicine, the Alcea Rosea is used as a laxative and emollient.

It’s often used to control inflammation and bedwetting.

Some cultures use it as a mouthwash to prevent bleeding gums.

The young leaves can be eaten raw or cooked.

They have a mild flavor and textured leaves are desirable.

Chop them up and throw them in your salad.

The root has a nutritious starch which is good for your health.

The petals are often used to make a refreshing tea or extract oil.

Composting is a thing of beauty, unless it’s not. Many folks run into problems when composting. It’s okay, you’ve come to the right place. Here are the top 5 composting problems people come across and how to fix them.

1. Compost isn’t getting hot. Probably the number one problem with composting is that the pile doesn’t heat up, thus it’s doing a whole lot of nothing. There are several reasons for compost not heating up. First off, the pile might be too small. Secondly, the pile may not contain enough moisture. Turn the pile while adding water. Allow it to sit for a few hours and then check it. If need be, add more water until a handful when squeezed contains beads of water. Turning the pile is necessary to help it decompose as is enough nitrogen in the form of grass clippings or food waste. On the other hand, compost that gets too hot can be problematic too.

2. Compost smells bad. Another issue with composting is that the pile smells, which is never pleasant. The nasty odor rotten eggs may be the result of lack of air due to compacting or excess moisture. Turn the pile to add air and dry out. Also, add wood chips or some other carbon bulk to increase air space. If the pile smells more like ammonia, there is probably too much nitrogen in it. The solution is to add carbon material such as leaves or straw.

3. Compost takes too long to decompose. Let’s face it, we’re not always patient and composting takes time. That said, the process will take much less time if proper maintenance is achieved – this includes managing factors such as proper carbon to nitrogen ratio (browns and greens), surface area, aeration, moisture and temperature. Keeping compost ingredients smaller can help with quicker decomposition too.

4. Compost has bugs. Another complaint is that the pile is attracting bugs, typically flies. Well, assuming you are composting in the great outdoors, for the most part this is normal. To minimize the insect issue, turn the pile from the outside toward the inside so it heats up and keep the pile just moist enough so that beads of water can be seen when you do the squeeze test.

5. Compost attracts animals. Lastly, when rats and other animals are interested in the pile, this can become a problem. This means that you have food sources to close to the surface of the pile. Things like food waste should be buried between several inches of carbon material. Also, don’t add waste such as oil, fat, dairy, bones or meat to the pile. The aroma sends a clear signal to wildlife that dinner is served.