Many a homeowner would love to step out into their backyard to enjoy a pond, with the relaxing aura it can provide.
The steps of adding a backyard pond often times seem too difficult for homeowners. However, that’s not the case. An old tractor tire comes in handy when creating this garden decoration and water feature.
In this particular case the tire functions as the “frame” for the pond liner to create a beautiful pond. It takes some work but well worth it.
The first step starts by finding a tire for your pond. The one pictured makes a nice size pond about 5-6 feet across.
Cutting the top or sidewall out of the tire using a reciprocating saw or something similar makes short order of this task. Below you can see the sidewall removed and the tire inside washed and cleaned out.
Roll the tire and place it in the location of your new pond. Outline the the area with a hose or spray paint. Move the tire out of the way and its time to start digging.
Everything dug out and ready to drop in the tire!
Tire in place, plastic “liner” installed and filled with water. From the picture this “liner” appears to look like black plastic film. Look for a pond liner material which can handle the exposure to the sun and able to withstand potential holes.
Soil filled back in on the sides as pond begins to take shape.
Two level waterfall installed, flat stones placed around edge of pond and solar lights added.
Backyard pond finished!
Below is a short video of the process titled: Redneck Fish Pond
Every year, prior to the onset of summer, I review our first aid kit with a checklist in hand to make sure it is well-stocked. Acetaminophen and ibuprofen – check. Antibiotic ointment – check. Adhesive bandages – check. Sterile gauze pads – check. Yarrow – check. Wait. Yarrow? Did she just say yarrow? Why, yes! I did.
Common yarrow, a member of the Asteraceae (Daisy) family, is rated for USDA plant hardiness zones 3-9 and features rounded clusters of white or pinkish flat-topped flowers. Each dainty flower in the cluster is 3-5 mm. in diameter. The leaves of this perennial are described as finely dissected and are 1-6 inches (2.5 to 15 cm.) long and up to an inch wide. A single yarrow plant can grow up to 36 inches (91 cm.) high.
While yarrow today is regarded more as an ornamental or maybe even an insect-repelling plant, it is, indeed, a first aid plant and has been for centuries. The history of yarrow reveals that this plant possesses medicinal properties as a hemostatic (blood coagulation), analgesic (pain reliever) and antiseptic. Read on to learn more about common yarrow uses.
Yarrow Plant History
Greek Trojan War hero, Achilles, may be best known for his weakness (his heels), when really, he should be most renowned for his use of yarrow, which he applied topically to his troops’ wounds during the siege of Troy. Achilles medicinal knowledge of yarrow actually came from his mentor, the mythological centaur Chiron. Achilles does get a nod to his role in yarrow’s history via the plant’s botanical name (Achillea millefolium or Achilles’ Thousand-Leaved plant). And, due to the application of yarrow on the battlefields, it was commonly referred to as Herba Militaris (the military herb) in classical times. While Achilles has been credited largely for yarrow’s discovery and use, some evidence suggests that its use pre-dated Achilles and was possibly a part of Neanderthal culture.
Most sources support the belief that the early colonists introduced yarrow into North America while others ascribe to the notion that it is a plant native to Native America, given how the plant’s use was so deeply embedded in native American culture. The Native Americans embraced the medicinal properties of yarrow and used it to remedy a large number of external and internal ailments including wounds, burns, toothaches, arthritis, digestion and sore throats, just to name a few yarrow uses.
Given its reputation as an effective blood coagulant and astringent, you would be surprised to know that yarrow can actually elicit a nosebleed if a fresh leaf is inserted in the nostril and twisted. Who would deliberately cause a nosebleed, you ask? Well, the young and lovelorn, for one. In the book A Modern Herbal, authored by Briton Mrs. M. Grieve in 1931, girls were taught (or misled…ahem) that they could determine if their suitor’s love be true if their nose bled upon inserting yarrow while reciting a prepared rhyme. Nosebleeds were also induced by those who believed they cured headaches. A trade-off of one problem for another, if you will…
I’m sure that after reading about the history of yarrow, many of you are wondering how to use yarrow in a medical application. Fresh leaves can be chewed into a paste and used as a simple poultice on wounds. Leaves can also be dried and pulverized into a powder that can be used on bleeding wounds. Yarrow can also be brewed into a tea – those who suffer from menstrual discomfort, for example, may wish to try the tea. Some people even infuse yarrow into an herbal oil.
Yarrow is very easy to grow and, if this yarrow plant history is any indication, would be a valuable addition to the flora in your backyard because it is first aid within reach and in a pinch!
Over time most gardeners learn which flowers to plant around the garden with the properties that invite beneficial insects or repel insects naturally.
Planting flowers for natural pest control, reduces pesticide use but also your workload.
Less pesticides equals more good bugs, to control bad bugs such as the western flower thrips (flankliniella occidentalis), aphids, tomato hornworms, flea beetles, parasitic wasps and other insect pests.
A bed of beautiful flowers is perhaps one of the simplest ways you can get to add more aesthetic value to your home.
This will remain the fact provided that the right selection of the flowers is made taking into consideration the aspects such as variety or the intended architectural beauty.
Flowers however do pose one “problem” – their beautiful scents do attract many insects and most of these tend to be pests. These bugs eat the leaves, suck them dry of nutrients, cause diseases such as powdery mildew, and bring enormous plant damage.
These bugs eat the leaves, suck them dry of nutrients, cause diseases such as powdery mildew, and bring enormous plant damage.
Applying pesticides, insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils and other chemical controls, on the other hand would be non-ecological approach as these will devalue the current trend which most homes are usually after – the “going green” living concept.
A more biological control for keeping the invading pests is by perhaps planting some natural pesticide plants and flowers. Some of these pest control flowers include:
This is perhaps one of the most preferred landscaping flowers used in many homes as well as real estate projects.
The beauty of marigold is that it is very effective in repelling invading insects and the advantage is that a home decorated with this beautiful flower will get to have its much needed aesthetic value without ever seeing any sign of an invading pest.
Other flowers are usually effective in repelling small-sized pests. Marigold is however an exception as it can repel as well as kill whiteflies and nematodes – which are among the most common invading pests.
Marigold flowers are available in different varieties which do come as either scented or unscented.
Planting unscented marigold flowers is perhaps the only way for home owners who would like to keep off the spiders and snails.
These flowers are very appealing in that they do comprise flower heads which do exists in white, yellow or pink colors.
They do attract many butterflies and for homeowners who would want the magical colors that these insects do add in, chrysanthemums would be a wonderful option.
In fact, one of the aspects which make chrysanthemums to be highly effective pest-fighting flowers is that they contain a highly active ingredient which is to make pesticides for killing and repelling beetles.
Besides their effectiveness at repelling insects, these flowers do grow very quickly and this implies that their intended benefits can be felt within just a shirt time span.
The beautiful thing about Dahlia flowers is that they do exist in a wide variety of shapes and colors thus making them to be very popular option among flower gardeners.
The other really impressive bit about Dahlia flowers is that they do work great when it comes to repelling some of the common invading pests.
They can repel nematodes while at the same time ensuring that they get to serve their other purpose – keeping a highly beautiful and useful look in the home garden.
Homeowners in need of really large flowers will surely pick on sunflowers.
Their other benefit is that they will surely deliver the intended beauty aspect while at the same time serving their ecological function – acting as pollinator base mostly for butterflies.
In most of the times, the butterflies aren’t that many and this relatively small number will definitely help to add in some beauty to the flower garden. Sunflowers too are good at repelling pests especially aphids.
There are these pests which are highly destructive and within just a short time stint can destroy all the flowers grown in the vegetable garden – aphids, hornworms, cabbage worms, asparagus beetles and leafhoppers.
These pests do bore the essential parts of the flowers making them less attractive and to rid them, most homeowners will in most instances consider using pesticides and insecticide sprays. Petunias are however excellent at repelling these kind of pests as their juicy matter are strongly scented.
To utilize this yellow jacket repellent, simply soak cotton pads with the oil and strategically place them around the exterior of your home. Target areas where wasps like to build their nests and places where you have discovered their nests in the past. (..)
Besides being really attractive, the other upside of borage flowers is that they only attract the right kind of insects – bees which do serve the ecological function of acting as pollinators.
Borage flowers do grow very tall and do have some little scratchy hairs all over their bodies. Perhaps this is one factor which explains why these flowers are highly effective in fighting pests like cabbageworms and hornworms.
Their sprawling nature implies that they can cover the whole garden within no time thus ensuring that the invading pests are kept at a safe distance from even nearing the flower garden.
Besides being beautiful, the other useful thing with these flowers is that will attract beautiful insects to the flower garden.
The other really good thing is that they can repel moths, whiteflies and fleas while at the same time; their rapid growth (not so invasive) does ensure that they cover the flower garden just at the right timing.
Putting flowering Lavender in the garden is a really beautiful idea in that their act of attracting pollinating insects, helps to add much to ecological sustainability. Lavender flowers also do give out some scented aroma which is very effective in driving away mosquitoes.
Owning a little vegetable garden at your home? The more you should be prepared for an even more pest invasive environment.
The reason why vegetables tend to attract many pests is that they do act as nutrients source and their presence will do little in preventing the food-hungry pests from streaming in.
You may have that little time to weed the garden but when it comes to regularly applying any required natural organic pesticides – that will of course a highly daunting task.
Vegetables attract pests like larvae, caterpillars, beetles, aphids, squash bugs and all kind of plants you can think of. These pests do pose an unsightly look to any flower garden. They invade and perhaps this is the last thing you would want for your home.
The best garden pest control in this kind of situations is by perhaps planting the above flowers and others like Nasturtiums and Four O’ Clocks (a favorite of Japanese Beetles) around your vegetable garden. This process is called companion planting. Other natural ways for pest management include the use of neem oil and diatomaceous earth. To have more information on organic pest controls at home gardens check out the video below:
Here at Gardening Know How we get lots of questions, and our goal is to provide answers to those inquiries to the best of our knowledge. When it comes to growing bulbs, tulips are at the top of the list. The following article includes the 10 most commonly asked questions about tulip bulbs and their care in the garden.
In general, the best time to plant tulip bulbs is in the fall around the months of October to November in the Northern Hemisphere. If you live in a mild winter area, you could even wait until December. Keep in mind that those residing on the opposite side of the globe (Southern Hemisphere), like Australia, will have different planting times – such as late April to May.
Lack of Nutrients: Tulips need phosphorus to form flower buds. Conduct a soil test to verify that your soil is phosphorus deficient. Consider fertilizing your tulip bulbs annually with a phosphorus rich fertilizer to provide a much needed boost.
Inadequate Growing Conditions: Were the tulips planted in a location that receives full sun? Is the soil well draining? Were the tulips planted at the right depth (tulips should be planted three times deeper than they are tall)?
Energy-Deprived Bulbs: Resist the urge to mow down the foliage after the tulip flowers are spent. Prematurely cutting down the foliage prevents the leaves from storing enough energy to form the flower bulb. Let the foliage die back naturally instead and snip off any spent tulip blossoms so that energy isn’t diverted to a tulip’s seed producing efforts.
Bad Bulbs: Sometimes the bulbs that we purchase are not healthy. Inspect your bulbs before buying and planting. Were the bulbs you acquired plump and firm? It is recommended when buying a load of bulbs to slice one open and take a peek to see if the flower bud in the center is brown and dried up.
Assuming you are talking about replanting bulbs that have been forced indoors over the winter, yes, you can – however, you may or may not get another bloom off them because tulips don’t rebound very well after being forced. But, to give yourself the best chance for tulip reblooming success, allow the foliage to die back naturally and store the container in a cool, dry location until spring. When planting, apply some bulb boosting fertilizer to the top of the soil where you planted your bulb.
If growing the potted tulips for indoor enjoyment, they will need to be forced (refer to question #8 “How can I force tulip bulbs?”) in order to receive the cold dormant period they require. The care of forced tulips is easy once the foliage emerges. Simply water the tulips when the soil is dry to the touch and keep the plant out of direct light and drafts.
Tulip bulbs planted in containers that are destined for placement outdoors are planted at the same depth as their in-ground outdoor counterparts. Consider layering your bulbs, with 3-4 inches (7.6-10 cm.) of potting soil between each layer, to create visually dynamic arrangements based on tulip height and color. Those in zones 6 or below can store the pot in a cool sheltered area such as a garage or basement. Water the container about once a month and bring it back outside, with a dose of fertilizer, in early spring. Those in zones 7 on up will want to pre-chill their bulbs prior to planting.
When digging up tulip bulbs for storage, brush any excess dirt off of the bulbs. Obtain a cardboard box and newspaper. Layer the bulbs in the cardboard box with newspaper sandwiched in between each layer, taking care that the bulbs in each layer do not touch. Store the box in a cool, dry place such as a basement or garage. Inspect the bulbs periodically and toss any that become mushy.
Tulip bulbs can be ransacked from below ground by voles or above ground by squirrels, or even deer. While there are many methods proposed for combatting these pests, here are a few tips on protecting your bulbs from rodents:
Laying and staking down chicken wire over the planting area can be an effective deterrent for our squirrelly friends.
As for voles, you can try constructing and embedding a makeshift cage into the ground using mesh with half inch holes. Plant your bulbs inside these cages – the bulb’s roots will still have free reign to penetrate through the mesh.
You can also try lining your bulb holes with sharp textured gravel, which voles do not like burrowing through.
Buy spring tulip bulbs in the fall for the express purposing of forcing. Store them 12-16 weeks in a cool dark place that is 35-45 F. (2-7 C.). After this chilling period, procure a container with good drainage. Fill it with good quality potting soil 3-4 inches (7.6-10 cm.) shy of the container’s top rim. When planting tulip bulbs in containers, the flat side of the bulb should face toward the outside of the pot with the pointy end of the bulb facing up. Bulbs should be spaced at least one inch apart. Fill the container with soil, leaving the very tip of the tulip protruding through the top of the soil. Place the pot in a cool, dark place and water lightly once a week. Once foliage emerges, place the pot in bright indirect light and you should be rewarded with blooms in 2-3 weeks. Tulips can also be forced in water.
Tulips and other bulbs in bloom are more sensitive to frosts and freezes than they are when their buds are in a closed state. And this is really more of a concern for periods of prolonged cold, lasting several days. However, to err on the side of caution, a bed sheet hovered over the plants, supported by stakes, is an ideal way to protect your plants.
Fertilize tulips once a year in the fall using a slow release tulip bulb fertilizer with a nutrient ratio of 9-9-6. If you do not want to use or seek out pre-packaged fertilizer, you can concoct your own mix using equal parts blood meal, green sand and bone meal.
The passiflora known more commonly as the “passion flower vine” is one of the “new” vines introduced for spring color offerings available at garden centers.
If you’re ready to add a conversation plant or something really unique to the outside patio on a trellis, take a look at this Brazilian native.
To learn about care, varieties and catch some video, continue reading the rest of the post below…
Passiflora From Brazil
The purple passion fruit makes its home from southern Brazil through Paraguay and in parts northern Argentina. Before 1900, passion fruit was partially naturalized and flourishing in coastal areas of Australia.
Seeds of the passion fruit were brought from Australia to Hawaii and first planted in 1880. It wasn’t long, because of its fast-growing nature that the passiflora vine became popular in home gardens.
Passion vines prefer a frost-free climate. Some cultivars can take temperatures into the upper 20’s (F) without serious damage.
The “Blue Passion Vine” is pretty cold hardy and salt tolerant but the plant does not grow well in intense summer heat.
The yellow passion fruit is tropical and isn’t fond of frost. The purple and yellow forms both need protection from the wind.
They make quite a few products from the plant and fruit – Like tea.
Another interesting item about the Passiflora is that they are very popular with butterflies such as zebra longwing and gulf fritillary butterfly.
There are dozens of passion vines, both edible and non-edible. Our focus will be on the ornamental variety.
Question: Are the fruits of passion flowers edible?
Answer: Many species of passion flowers bear edible fruits. among them, Passiflora data, antioquiensis, edula, incarnate (the Maypop of southern US), laurifolia, ligularis, and maliformis.
Is The Passion Flower An Annual or Perennial?
The Passion Flower is a quick-growing perennial plant which spreads via root suckers. It is a climbing vine and can cover large areas above ground and spread far and wide below ground.
In climates that experience warm winter temperatures, it is a woody plant. In very cold temperatures, the above-ground vegetation dies off during winter and the plant is herbaceous.
Culture And Growing Passion Flower Vines
Location of Passion Fruit
Care for the passion fruit vines requires full sun except during those very hot summer days, if possible provide some partial shade. The vine is a fast grower and can get out of hand, so if possible plant it next to a chain link fence or on a trellis. and
What Soil Does Passion Fruit Flower Like?
The vines grow in many soil types but make sure the plant gets excellent drainage.
A well-drained soil is still the best. Also, passion flowers grow excellently on soils with pH levels of 6.5 to 7.5.
How Often To Water The Passion Flower Plant?
If you want to keep the vines flowering almost continuously, regular water is necessary.
The vines are shallow-rooted and will benefit from a thick layer of organic mulch in the soil.
Passion Vine Pruning – Is It Needed?
Although the passionflowers don’t need pruning to encourage growth, prune the fast-growing vine to keep it in control and encourage branching.
Prune in early spring as this serves as the perfect time when new growth appears. Avoid cutting the main stems, just remove those unwanted twining stems.
Passion Flower Fertilizer
Passiflora vines are vigorous growers and require regular fertilizing. Stay away from just using a 20-20-20 liquid fertilizer.
This may promote good growth but possibly too much green and not enough flower. Use a solid fertilizer with a ratio more along the lines of a 2-1-3.
What USDA Hardiness Zone Will The Passion Flower Grow?
The Passion Flower is listed as hardy in USDA hardiness zones 5-9; however, it may actually struggle in zone 5 and may not survive very cold winters.
If you live below zone 6 you should plant Passion Flower in a sheltered area near a wall so and provide the roots with protection against the cold in the wintertime. [source]
6 Things To Remember When Buying Passiflora Plants
Find out when your nursery receives new shipments
Look for clean undamaged foliage
Inspect the plants for good root systems
Don’t let them hang out the window on the ride home
Don’t let them sit in the car while you run into the store.
They must acclimate to their new environment
Video showing many varieties of Passion Vines
When Does The Passion Flower Bloom?
The Passion Flower blooms from mid-summer to early fall. It is typically in bloom from July to September. The flowers are attractive and fragrant.
They transition into edible, egg-shaped fruits called Maypops.
These fruits are fleshy and quite tasty. They are good for eating out-of-hand and for making jelly.
Fruits are called Maypop because they pop loudly when stepped on. [source]
Why Isn’t My Passion Flower Blooming?
As the Passion Flower has grown in popularity, it has found itself planted in a variety of conditions and in areas it would never naturally grow.
Even though (or perhaps because) the plant is essentially a vigorous wildflower, these unusual circumstances can interfere with its performance.
Here are four of the most common reasons Passion Flower fails to bloom.
Age of The Plant
Like many types of plants, some Passion Flowers need several years to become established and bloom. This is especially true if you grow your plant from seed.
Depending upon your climate, passion flower may grow as a woody plant or a tender perennial. Woody plants often have a “juvenile stage” which precedes maturity.
During this phase, the plant will not flower. Instead, it will produce lots of leaves and shoots.
This may go on for a couple of years, but if you will just be patient with your plant and continue to care for it, you will eventually be rewarded with flowers.
Too Much Fertilizer
Remember the passion vine flower is basically a wildflower. They do better with less care and less nutrition.
Pampering and excessive fertilizing can lead to lots of leaves and no flowers. This is especially true if you feed a high nitrogen fertilizer, which encourages vegetative growth.
Your best bet is to stop fertilizing and water your plant thoroughly to wash away as much nitrogen as possible.
Adding phosphorus (i.e. bone meal) to the soil may also help balance nitrogen levels.
Not Enough Sunlight
Like most flowering, fruiting plants, Passion Flower needs lots of sun in order to produce. Keeping the plant in the shade may result in lots of leaves and few or no flowers.
Not Enough Water
These plants are drought tolerant, but that doesn’t mean that they do their best in drought conditions.
If you want a plant with plenty of pretty flowers and fruit, you must plant it in well-draining soil and give it plenty of water.
Ample water helps deliver nourishment to the leaves and other plant structures so the plant can thrive and flowers and fruit can grow.
These four considerations usually account for lack of flowering in Passion Flowers vines and many other natives, and flowering plants.
When you keep your climate and the plant’s growth habits in mind and take care to provide the right amount of nourishment, water and light, your plant will surely produce pretty blossoms in good time. [source]
Exotic Passion Flowers Have Been Symbolized With The Crucifixion
Early missionaries devoted to botany saw in the flowers a religious symbol. The flower parts, indicated in image, suggested to them the Passion of Christ, and thus the flower was named.
These exotic passion flowers have been symbolized with the crucifixion and sometimes look like they resemble something from outer space.
1 – Ten petals represent the ten apostles present at the crucifixion, Peter and Judas being absent;
2 – Corona or crown represents the crown of thorns or thought to be emblematic of the halo
3 – Five anthers suggestive of the five wounds or emblematic of hammers used to drive nails
4 – Three stigmas representative of the three nails piercing the hands and the feet.
Not shown are the tendrils representing cords or whips and the leaves suggesting the hands of the persecutors.
The passion flower plant was one of the treasures found by the Spaniards in the new world.
Years later taxonomists classified the passion flower passiflora in a large family containing many species and a great number of hybrids.
Today, probably the best known hybrid is Passiflora alata-caerulea.
This passion flower variety has the largest and showiest flowers of them all and is a hybrid between Passiflora alata and Passiflora caerulea.
Passiflora alata, has winged stems, large fragrant flowers of crimson, purple and white, and yellow edible fruit about 5 in. long.
Passiflora ‘Alata-Caerulea’ – a hybrid between Passiflora alata and the blue passiflora caerulea, favorite with three-parted green leaves and fragrant four-inch flowers.
The petals and fringed crown combine pink, white, blue, and royal purple. Since the blooms are so large there are not as many of them.
Passiflora antioquiensis – Seeds are available for this South American species with five-inch red flowers, three-lobed leaves, edible fruit.
Passiflora bryonoldes – A vine with more slender growth. The foliage is three-to-five-lobed and more rounded than pointed.
The blue-and-white flowers with a rose-fringed crown are the same color as Passiflora edulis and each flower sets one-inch green fruit that ripens to purple-black.
The seeds are orange colored and they germinate well. The seedlings bloom the first year. It is a dainty and interesting vine to grow.
Passiflora caerulea – “Blue-crowned” passiflora with five-parted leaves and flowers in blue, rose, and pale green. The egg-shaped yellow fruit is edible. This is one of the more hardy species. Its variety, grandiflora, has larger flowers.
Passiflora cinnabarina – This Australian native has five-inch pebbly three-lobed rounded foliage and bears red, five-petaled star-shaped scarlet flowers, with a small yellow crown, followed by green aromatic fruits.
Does not appear to be a vigouous grower. The flowers are not as showy as many others passion flower varieties.
Passiflora sanguinolenta – also known as blood red passion flower which comes from Ecuador. It is a smaller type of perennial vine that can take frost.
Passiflora coccinea – Toothed oval leaves, free-flowering species with scarlet and orange flowers.
We are indebted to Dr. Ira S. Nelson, professor of horticulture at the University of Southwestern Louisiana (formerly Southwestern Louisiana Institute), Lafayette, Louisiana, for re-introducing this spectacular variety.
He shared in his writings that of all the material he collected in Bolivia in 1954, this is the most showy.
“The two-inch fruit is pulpy and tart with an exotic flavor and pleasing aroma. It is well branched and sturdy” and reported that the plant he collected bloomed in late August each year since it began blooming.
Passiflora coriacea – is indeed different. Its foliage suggests a bat in flight. It has been dubbed the “bat-leaf” passiflora.
The lovely Blue-green leaves are mottled with silver or off-white. The 1 1/2-inch twin flowers are a pleasing golden yellow, and have five petals and no sepals.
Cuttings root well and usually bloom even while rooting in water.
Passiflora edulis – passionfruits, or purple granadilla – Three-lobed leaves, two-inch flowers white and purple fruit about the size of a hen’s egg, fruit used in many recipes in the tropics. A good climber, grown as a commercial crop in Australia, incarnata (maypop) is a native; fruit edible; flowers white, pink and purple.
Passiflora exoniensis a hybrid between Passiflora vanvolxensi and Passiflora mollissima, has large showy flowers of brick-red and rose-pink.
Passiflora foetida – Three-pointed leaves; two-inch flowers pinkish, with three fern-like fronds below the sepals. Brillant red fruit used in dried arrangements.
Passiflora incarnata – maypop, May apple, purple passion vine, wild passion flowers. Passiflora incarnata or purple passion plant.
A southern native, hardy with light frost, with three-inch blue-and-white flowers and three-lobed foliage which is pointed with a center lobe is six by two inches.
Passiflora laurifolia (Jamaica-honeysuckle) has entire leaves, white flowers spotted red, and yellow edible fruit.
Passiflora lutea – Hardy, and often native from Philadelphia south; one-inch yellow flowers.
Passiflora manicata is a rapid and vigorous climber, suitable for outdoor planting in the warmer parts of the country. It makes a fine show with its profusion of bright scarlet flowers set off with a blue crown.
Passiflora mollissima – Three-lobed, fuzzy leaves; three-inch rose flowers.
Passiflora quadrangularis – giant (Granadilla) one of the chief species grown for fruit. It is a tall strong grower, with large fragrant flowers of white, red and purple, and yellowish-green fruits to 9 in. long.
Passiflora racemosa (princeps) – Four-inch crimson flowers touched with purple and white, deeply lobed leaves, is one of the best of the red-flowered species, and has been largely used in hybridizing.
Passiflora tomentosa – Fuzzy vine with pink and purple flowers.
Passiflora trifasdata – Known for its variegated foliage, which is three-lobed to one-third of the leaf, with irregular rose-pink bands along the midrib, shading to silver and other hues, depending on the light in which it grows.
This foliage is most colorful if it is located in less sun than the all green varieties. Undersides of the leaves are wine-red. The 1 3/4-inch flowers are white to yellow with petals recurved and fragrant.
Passiflora violacea – exquisite 3 1/2-inch flowers which suggest “lavender and old lace.” The rich violet-lavender filaments have curled tips, eliminating any stiff appearance.
Even the petals and sepals are flushed lavender and three sepals are tipped with small green balls, the size of a radish seed, in place of the spine some other varieties have.
Flowers are fragrant and foliage is three-lobed and pointed. This vine has been hardy all the way to Minnesota when growing near the house foundation.
Family: Passifloraceae Common Name: Passion Flower